The number of designers debuting their fall collections has remained stable, with 75 participants this year, only slightly down from 80 in September before the economic crisis swung into full speed.

The original Wonder Woman, actress Lynda Carter, US Olympic champions and a host of other celebrities opened this major fashion gathering by taking to the catwalk to preview the annual Heart Truth's Red Dress Collection to highlight awareness of heart disease.

But the mood was somber.

Yigal Azrouel, a young Israeli-born designer who made his debut in 1998 in New York, set a romantic tone with a show lasting less than 10 minutes that featured slinky dresses with pleated yokes worn under short, loose-fitting tweed coats with wide collars.

Only 25 to 30 models were used by most stylists, down from the usual 30 to 40 models. Some designers organized joint shows to cut costs that can reach into the thousands of dollars for space rental, after-show parties and model fees, plus make-up artists and hairdressers.