Advertisement:

Win Win Websites Promotion


Win Win Websites Promotion

Scent Notes | Rêve en Cuir by Indult for Scent Bar

Chandler Burr nytimes.com
Scent Notes | Rêve en Cuir by Indult for Scent Bar


Indult is a tiny Parisian perfume house founded and run by Julien Maselli. It functions according to a clubby modus operandi whereby Maselli makes only 999 bottles of each perfume; when you buy a bottle, you get an Indult membership card — the name comes from medieval Latin; an indultum was a privilege accorded by the church or a king — and you can get it refilled until you die.



(You can, of course, choose to make your card sufficiently plastic to cover friends, family, your trainer, his accountant and your entire entourage.) All the Indult scents are created by the perfumer Francis Kurkdjian, one of the three or four most talented and innovative artists working in the medium. Currently there are five Indult perfumes. Four are excellent.

Manakara smells like a color-saturated contemporary painting, as if Barnett Newman’s 1966 “Who’s Afraid of Red, Yellow and Blue?” somehow exuded scent from its glaring acrylic surface. Kurkdjian olfactorily “photographed” rose and lychee, then treated those natural scents with an acid wash of synthetic perfumery raw materials. The resulting perfume is brilliant, vibrating between real, delicate rose-lychee and an intentionally disorienting neon gas version. The perfume is well-constructed, mesmerizing and slightly outrageous. (The perfumer Sofia Grojsman created a similar work of olfactory color theory, called Outrageous, for Frédéric Malle; in that case, it was the scent of a Mondrian.)




Tihota (Indult’s names are slightly precious) is a similar morphing of vanilla bean and musk, though calmer and a bit more literalist. Kurkdjian uses the musks (the smell of warm skin) to nicely punch up vanilla’s roasted aspect. And Isvaraya is a patchouli and plum that takes one of the most marvelous natural raw materials — patchouli’s rich creamy/earthy/grassy scent tinged with tropical humidity and a trace of exquisite rot — and injects a subtle, juicy, darkish fruit into its veins. The grass becomes succulent and edible. It’s magical work.

The least interesting Indult scent was created for the ultra-exclusive Paris store Colette. C16 is not bad, it’s just a bit of a gimmick — 16 musks, “all together now!” — and is, in a sense, the exact opposite of the house’s latest, created for the ultra-exclusive Los Angeles perfume outfit Lucky Scent, whose online arm is the only place that sells Indult in the United States. Luckyscent.com is run by Franco Wright and Adam Eastwood, whose physical store, Scent Bar (8327 Beverly Boulevard), is Hollywood’s source for niche, avant-garde perfumes you can’t find anywhere else. One of these will certainly be the new Rêve en Cuir.

Leather — old, dark, smoky, heavy — is diabolically difficult to adapt to an accessible 21st-century format. Under the creative direction of Maselli, Wright and Eastwood, Kurkdjian has succeeded masterfully. Rêve is a delectable, edible, light-infused leather that is instantly legible, deliciously impossible, as if an Hermès belt had been candied and baked by a patissier. Technically perfect (it lasts and diffuses like clockwork), it is also an aesthetic triumph. Hermès’s own Kelly Calèche wonderfully modernized leather; Rêve en Cuir is even better, stronger and more daring. It is not just the leather you never imagined — it is also the gourmand you never imagined. Indeed, membership has its privileges.


Source



Add your comment
  Anonymous comment
Nickname:
Password:
  Remember me on this computer

Title:
Send me by email any answer to my comment
Send me by email every new comment to this article