One moment the most classic, covetable couture for winter 2008 you could hope for; the next an unimaginative muddle that is surely flying in the face of the economic downturn.

While the Chanel collection was not my favourite  -  too many weird 'wings' on hips (which if you actually have hips will make you look impossibly bulky), and over-puffy shoulders reminiscent of milk maids, and hobble skirts  -  when I looked at the collection in the showroom the next day, I couldn't help but be impressed by the craftsmanship in every stitch.

Karl Lagerfeld was, yet again trying to nod towards the younger customer, with lots of short skirts, but there was still enough here for the superannuated customer, too.

Quite special were the boucle wool coats over simple dresses (but a bit hot, surely, what with global warming?), the tweed skirts made soft with fringing, and the hourglass evening dresses with sweetheart necklines, silver beading and satin column skirts.