The absence of black models on the covers of fashion magazines has long been a complaint inside the industry. The justification frequently given is that such covers "do not sell".

Leading black figures among models, designers and agents claim that the business has grown increasingly discriminatory, with levels of exposure for black women among the lowest since the 1960s. Several big names have formed a protest group in New York to highlight the problem.

Italian Vogue's editor, Franca Sozzani, said her decision was influenced by the New York group, as well as by Barack Obama's success in the US presidential primaries.