The midnight blue metallic basketweave fabric, as a Grace Kelly topper, is beautiful. On several velvet and satin cocktail dresses, I think the unforgiving square neckline is meant for an ingenue, and ingenues don’t wear Joeffer: strong women do. Consider some of the boldface attending the show: Wendy Crewson, in sequin-encrusted, back-plunging silver; Jacqueline Hennesey in zesty lemon one-shoulder charmeuse. On the runway, Caoc’s signature, deceptively simple-looking origami folds, drapes and one-shoulders parade by (Eva Longoria would have a field day posing on the red carpet in any one of them) but I can’t help longing for more colour. It's all beautiful, but last season (and the one before that) Caoc spoiled us with tangerines, acid yellows and fuchsia, and this is an about-face into subdued, almost mournful, territory. And as you can see from the finale photo, Caoc is one of the most happiest guys in fashion.

It’s moody lighting, and it’s late. All these black and bruised purplish colours, the teal, indigo and slate blue (often with matching, humongous ponyskin bags) feel...gloomy. I have to admit, I can’t give the show my full attention: I’m instead drawn to looking at statuesque Suzanne Boyd (in tiers of azalea-purple chiffon) and all the past seasons of Joeffer on display in the front row to cheer myself up.

[Designer Joeffer Caoc walks the runway with models. Credit: Peter J. Thompson/National Post]