A store with an "Asian exotic" theme takes over the Lambton Quay premises left empty after the collapse of the Sounds music store chain in November.

Acting chief executive Bruce McEwen said Bendon had been looking for a central Wellington site for years but had never found the right site at the right time.

"Wellington is reasonably well serviced [by Bendon] regionally, but it is a big thing to be on Lambton Quay. Lambton Quay is one of, if not the premier, shopping strip in the country."

The new store opens today and is the fourth of Bendon's new "concept" stores. The Auckland outlets' themes are French Fantasy, Victorian Stark, and Temple Temptress.

The Wellington store has been designed to get women into a relaxed fitting room and offer an increased service.

Bendon retail general manager Carol Pinker said research had shown women typically did not enjoy underwear shopping.

 "It was less enjoyable than some of the other things that women like to buy. The fitting experience was particularly unpleasant.

"We've made the [fitting rooms] exceptionally large compared to what is out there, and given them an anteroom to redress and touch up before heading back out into the store."

A Japanese tea area for customers' partners and friends to enjoy while they were waiting would be part of the design, too.

Spending 30 per cent more than an average fitout for the luxury concept was a concern for Bendon initially, Ms Pinker said.

The concept stores had performed well but two were in new malls and needed time to build traffic into sales.

Mr McEwen said that, with Lambton Quay's established location and foot traffic, there were high expectations of the new outlet. "We're expecting it to be a stand-out store."

He said retail was definitely experiencing a downturn as consumer pockets were hit by increases in interest rates and staple goods prices, but Bendon was in for the long haul.

The "natural conflict" between other Bendon retailers, such as neighbouring stores Kirkcaldie & Stains and Farmers, and the new themed store had been signalled long ago.

"This is not news to them," Mr McEwen said. "And what we are offering and what they are offering is not the same."