The designer did not travel to the former communist state but she did capture the dark side of the new European fashion hot spot: short black jackets embellished with dark crystal beading on military collars or epaulets and cuffs. Her pencil skirts were tight and trousers skin tight. Short black dresses had embroidered bell sleeves, and satin dresses featured chic box-pleated collars.

Dinnigan's nod to glamour was black and white ostrich feathers trimming short skirts, cool capes and a dramatic full-length coat.

"The collection is not as refined anymore. It's the antithesis to my resort collection," she said. "I was inspired by Russia and pure, hard rock; old record covers and the Russian circus - eccentric characters and the extraordinary. There was also a lot more tailoring in the collection because I want people to notice the pant."

The standout pieces were, however, the sparkling silver cocktail dresses and the simple sequined, black, one-shouldered top and plunging vest.

Dinnigan's glamour gowns have made her the queen of the red carpet here and in Hollywood. At the Oscars last week, Dinnigan was represented by the Melbourne Oscar winner, Eva Orner, who wore a nude chiffon gown with beaded bodice.

Dinnigan sent her first collection down the Paris catwalk in October 1995 and today is still the only Australian on the official schedule. She doesn't think about flying the flag; she even made the risky decision to take a year off in 2006 after the birth of her daughter, Estella. "The one thing I do think about is wanting to be earlier on the schedule," she said. She is on the last day with big guns Louis Vuitton, Miu Miu, Lanvin and Nina Ricci.

"It's difficult being on the other side of the world for most of the year, but showing in Paris is what keeps me focused as a designer. It's a business tool and a big part of our strategy for international distribution."

Dinnigan's estimated $20 million fashion empire is still doing big business at home and in America, Hong Kong, Russia and the Middle East. Once the designer finishes in Paris she will fly to India to begin creating beaded and embroidered fabrics for her next resort collection and designs for her luxury children's range, Enfant.