Grey, black and salt and pepper tweed were used for slim, masculine-cut coats and double-breasted trouser suits, both featuring new emphasis on the shoulders, squared-off, with padding or epaulette details.

Single-breasted jackets came with a kind of knee-length, knot-and-twist sarong, a variation on the ‘tulip’ shape.

New twists on knitwear included black and lilac cashmere chunky cable sweaters or twinsets, cardigans and little balletic boleros in either silver or pewter Lurex. The latter looked particularly effective worn with long, pewter, silk jersey, dinner-dresses.

A floating Guinivere-style cape was the more dramatic alternative.

The MaxMara show was in marked contrast to that of its younger ‘sister’, Sportmax which seemed to have lost its DNA entirely and was mired-down in an effort to be trendy, directional and avant-garde with a curious blend of military, ruffles, asymmetric and Victoriana inspirations accessorized with pirate boots.

Sportmax makes fantastic, high-quality, wearable separates with a hint of ‘fashion’, which are a more sportier, as the name suggests, version of MaxMara. This is what it should show.

Max Mara autumn/winter 2008/2009 collection
Photographs by EPA





Max Mara autumn/winter 2008/2009 collection
Photographs by Reuters












Sportmax autumn/winter 2008/2009 collection
Photographs by Reuters