Gone were the plunging cleavages, the microscopic minis and the gowns loaded with a wagon-loaded of bling. Instead, Cavalli went for a subtle, retro glamour, inspired by the Hollywood actress of the 1950’s, Nathalie Wood and her style in her starring role in the movie, “West Side Story”.
The opening mood was modest – a parade of full, prom-frocks, over petticoats, in white, printed with roses, mimosa and wisteria and worn with matching gloves and shoes. Tailored trouser suits were equally restrained.
Broderie anglaise frocks with ribbon details, continued the demure parade, before giving way to a South American, ethnic inspiration which included Inca-style knits in the traditional tan, white, grey and black, embroidered vests and full, peasant skirts, in black, trimmed with multi-coloured embroideries, which referenced those worn by the Inca peasant women in Cusco, Peru. For evening, the folkloric details were richly beaded in multi-colours on dense, foliage prints.
A black and white themed finale returned to the prom dresses of the opening scene. Admittedly, the boots were made of lace and were spike-heeled – but this was still a collection that was light years removed from what we normally see on the Cavalli catwalk.
“This is not a time for overt sexuality,” said Cavalli. “Sometimes it can be more sexy to be covered up.”Photographs by Reuters
Roberto Cavalli autumn/winter 2008/2009 collection
Photographs by AP
