From the scarcity of glitzy parties, to the empty seats in the VIP section at the shows, to the sobriety of the styles, the current week of Italian preview showings promises a somber fall-winter 2008-2009 season.
A model wears a creation part of the Gucci Fall/Winter 2008/2009 women's collection presented in
Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Feb. 20, 2008. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)
Recession is the talk of the town, and the strong euro is visibly taking its toll. The streets usually filled with fashionistas taking advantage of the shows for an Italian shopping spree, are sadly quiet, and the once bustling stores often empty.
"It's a difficult moment," said Andrea Della Valle, vice president of the Tod's leather company, famous for its bags and shoes, at a recent meeting of high-end fashion companies in Milan. However, Della Valle expects things to improve by 2009.
A model wears a creation part of the Gucci Fall/Winter 2008/2009 women's collection presented in
Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Feb. 20, 2008. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)
The downbeat mood could not help but creep onto the winter runway, starting with the palette. It begins with basic black, and doesn't get any brighter than light gray and beige. A series of muted fall colors ranging from pomegranate red to eggplant blue, moss green and leaf yellow add a bit of spice to the bland color scheme.
The long, lean silhouette also reflects the times. Gone are the sexy styles which made Milan the hottest runway on the fashion map, to be replaced by outfits so prim they would feel more at home in a convent than a club.
Models take the runway during the Gucci Fall/Winter 2008/2009 women's collection presented in
Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Feb. 20, 2008. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)
That is unless you are Miuccia Prada, who transformed lace from demure to daring Tuesday night, outfitting her ladies in body-hugging black dresses. Optimism should be moderated, however. The high-collared look, worn with hair strictly pulled back in a chignon and almost no makeup, could also fill the wardrobe of the not-so-merry widow.
"I have always hated lace," said Prada, famous for her unfussy minimalist styles. "But I love a challenge, and thought it could work for my new 'femme fatale.'"
And it did, as model after model slinked down the new ramp runway in coarse lace outfits that created a peek-a-boo effect with the bare flesh below.
A model wears a creation part of the Gucci Fall/Winter 2008/2009 women's collection presented in
Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Feb. 20, 2008. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)
Roberto Cavalli returned the favor Wednesday morning, going from his trademark sexy to sugary sweet, in romantic debutante gowns decorated with flowers, and coats and vests embroidered in naif folksy patterns. There was not a zebra stripe or a leopard spot in sight.
"I wanted to create clothes that make a woman beautiful without seeming vulgar," the apparent fashion convert said before the show.
Minimalist naif is nothing new to Consuelo Castiglione, the name behind the Marni label, who presented her latest wears Wednesday. This season, she worked hard on detail in creating interesting collars and hemlines on an otherwise simple silhouette. Fun high-heeled pumps in brightly colored patent-leather offered some sorely needed humor to this serious round of collections.
The Gucci show, which ended Wednesday's presentations, seemed like a kaleidoscope of next winter's fashion issues.
The silhouette was simple enough, based on a silk tunic, belted below the waist. But when creative director, Frida Giannini, fashioned her outfits in brightly patterned silk, and decorated them with every possible embroidery — from dangling tassels to gripping studs — the effect was dazzling.
Fashion designer Frida Giannini acknowledges the applause of the audience after presenting the Gucci Fall/Winter 2008/2009 women's collection
presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Feb. 20, 2008. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)
To make matters even more colorful, the Gucci runway was carpeted in red, white and gold, and adorned with the new gilded Gucci logo.
According to her fashion notes, Giannini's intent was to create an atmosphere of "Bohemian glamour."
Read that as an escape route from the humdrum of the current fashion scene, especially when accompanied by studded patent leather footwear and matching maxi handbag.
