His nerves were understandable. On the final day of London Fashion Week, the former Salvatore Ferragamo designer was having his first solo runway show.

"I waited until I am 41 to do my first show and that's late and I'm really glad I did because now I can do it properly and I can do it the way I really want to do it," Black said. "I know who I want to be today."

Black, who was Salvatore Ferragamo chief women's ready-to-wear designer for the past four years, ventured off on his own in September after presenting the brand's Spring/Summer 2008 fashion show in Milan.

After spending 15 years in Milan, where he also worked for Giorgio Armani, Black, born in Carnoustie, Scotland, said returning to Britain for the first runway show with his name on it seemed natural.

He started preparing for his fall 2008 line back in August. The line is a fusion of Scottish tweeds, tartans and highland sheep fur with the lightweight construction Black learned in Italy. Inspiration stemmed from Scottish architect Charles Rennie Mackintosh and the 1969 film "The Prime of Miss Jean Brodie."

The morning of the show began at 7 a.m. in a converted warehouse filled with antique fireplaces in Chelsea. The models gathered behind the venue in Ristorante Lincontro, which was unrecognizable once the vanity lights, hair products and piles of trendy Chantecaille makeup took over.

Munching on fruit and slugging Red Bull, the models were pampered as hair hotshot Sam McKnight and stylists tucked their tresses into fake bobs and the makeup team dabbed away dark circles with sponges.

Rising star Jourdan Dunn, 17, was already tired from New York and London shows but said the models are still going on to Milan and Paris. That means they spend the month of February waking up early, getting fitted, made up and blown dry for up to five shows a day.

In the main venue, Black and interior design partner Jonathan Reed were making the finishing touches to the runway. In contrast to the uniformity of a big white tent where many of fashion week's top designers showed, the designers chose a more personal space filled with hand-crafted, natural elements reflective of the same standards Black has for the fabrics of his designs.

"I want to have that integrity," Black said.

"And make money," he added with a grin.

Antique lanterns hung from the ceilings of the two-room space. The rooms were transformed to suit the browns, blues and greys of Black's designs.

Before the 10:30 a.m. start time, the models came out of hair and makeup for a tutorial on how Black wanted them to walk. Towering over the blond designer, the models filed through for a shoe rehearsal.

While guests arrived only to wait in the restaurant's back alley, the professionals packed into the dressing room and Black made himself a vodka tonic to calm his nerves.

The audience was filled with magazine editors and buyers, the targets of fashion week.

When all the guests were seated, the models lined up. Twenty women in nine-centimetre heels teetered about in Black's tartans, animal skins and chiffons - the moment, Black said, makes it all worth it.

The soundtrack began and the models were off. Black made the final adjustments before each went out and within 30 seconds the first model was back, running to change into her next outfit.

Daywear progressed to eveningwear.

Within 20 minutes it was all over and the fairy-tale models in Swarovski crystals, highland furs, snakeskin and luxurious suedes were wearing their jeans and high-tops once more.

After saying goodbye to his guests, Black breathed a sigh of relief. Though more low key than the other big shows, the day was exactly what he wanted.

"There is a way of doing things on my own terms and it doesn't have to be about a big show in Milan and it doesn't have to be about the top girls," Black said.

"It has to be about what feels comfortable for me and trying to find people that will then appreciate that esthetic."