Back in 2000, there was nary a two-button suit in sight —
men were only interested in three buttons or even four. Now, heading
into 2008, it's all about the two buttons, although suits look
different from those 1990s, incorporating the slimmer fit that came
with three-button suit.
The whole stance has moved up, Boehm
says, with the lower button right in line with the top of the jacket's
lower pockets. In 1998, that button would have been two inches lower.
There's also a greater space between the two buttons, growing from four
inches to five. "The spacing gives a longer, leaner, trimmer look to
it," Boehm says.
tShirts with button-down collars were the norm a decade ago. Men wore them with suits, sportcoats and no jacket at all.
Button-collar shirts are still worn but often with a more casual open
collar, while the shirts worn with suits and ties are spread collars.
tThe same wider 3 3/4 -inch tie had survived for the last 15 years or so, but it recently went on a diet, measuring closer to 3 inches now.
tSuit shoulders and lapels also have slimmed down. The
average shoulder on a size 40 jacket is 19 inches from point to point
instead of 20, and the standard lapel is 3 1/2 inches instead of 3 3/4
. (Yes, these seem to be very small amounts, but, says Boehm, they
really have noticeable effects.)
The notch on the lapel has moved up an inch or so.
tTrousers used to have double pleats, but flat-front pants are more common now. The
knee and cuff aren't as full: On a base-size 34-inch waist paint, the
knee is now 20 1/2 inches instead of 22, and the bottom is 18 instead
of 18 1/2 .
tMen aren't as afraid of color as they used to be. "You
have brights in knitwear, neckwear, suspenders, especially in the
spring and summer. It's a little more subdued in the winter; it'll be
rust instead of orange," Boehm says.
He reports one of Tom James' best-selling ties last year was a pinkish berry color.
— Samantha Critchell, Associated Press Fashion Writer
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